Shibamata

Shibamata (柴又) stands as a nostalgic temple town and a resolute guardian of the Showa-era spirit. Located in Katsushika Ward, approximately 30 minutes from Ueno, it is the ultimate symbol of furusato (hometown) for many Japanese—a place that evokes a salt-of-the-earth sense of community. This high-fidelity preservation is largely due to the legendary film series Otoko wa Tsurai yo (“It’s Tough Being a Man”), which filmed 48 installments here between 1969 and 1995. The district remains a living time capsule, where the bumbling but warm-hearted spirit of Kuruma Torajiro (Tora-san) is immortalized in bronze statues that greet visitors outside the station. For those seeking to bridge the gap between cinema and reality, the Tora-san Museum nearby provides a detailed look at the sets and technical ingenuity involved in this record-breaking production.

The transition from the station leads directly into the Taishakuten Sando, a 200-meter approach that functions as a vibrant culinary bridge to the past. This pedestrian street has changed little in decades and remains famous for its kusa-dango—mugwort-flavored rice dumplings topped with sweet red bean paste. Shops like Kurumaya, which served as the inspiration for the films, still prepare these treats by hand. Due to its proximity to the water, the area is also one of the few places in the capital to enjoy traditional river fish cuisine, including grilled eel (unagi) and carp (koi), served in century-old wooden restaurants that offer a sophisticated lull from modern life.

Intricate Craftsmanship and the Edo River Heritage

At the end of the Sando stands the magnificent Taishakuten Daikyoji. Founded in 1629, the temple is renowned for the Zuryu-no-matsu, a 400-year-old pine tree that resembles a dragon, but its true technical ingenuity is found in the Woodcarving Gallery. Here, intricate panels depicting the Lotus Sutra showcase some of the city’s finest craftsmanship. Adjacent to this gallery, the Suikei-en Garden provides a high-value walking path around a central pond, offering a moment of reflection before moving toward the riverside.

Behind the temple grounds lies Yamamoto-tei, the former home of businessman Einosuke Yamamoto. This residence represents an architectural lull where traditional Japanese sukiya-zukuri style meets Western influences, featuring a garden consistently ranked among the top three in Japan for its high-fidelity beauty. A short walk further leads to the banks of the Edo River, home to the Yagiri no Watashi. As the only remaining traditional hand-rowed ferry boat crossing in Tokyo, it transports passengers to Matsudo in a manner that has remained unchanged since the early Edo period. This compact, walkable district is best reached via the Keisei Kanamachi Line, offering a perfect half-day excursion for those looking to escape the high-energy noise of the city center.