Hachijojima

Hachijo Island (八丈島, Hachijōjima) lies approximately 300km south of central Tokyo in the Philippine Sea. It is part of the Izu volcanic arc, a chain that begins with Izu Oshima and stretches toward the tropical Ogasawara Islands. Despite its remote location, Hachijojima remains under the administrative jurisdiction of Tokyo Metropolis. Every year, nearly 100,000 visitors make the journey to enjoy its rugged volcanic scenery, unique subtropical flora, and secluded hot springs.

Geography and Climate

The island is uniquely formed from two separate volcanoes: the active Mount Hachijo-fuji in the northwest and the older Mount Mihara in the southeast. Most of the island’s 7,000 residents live in the flat plains nestled between these two peaks. Due to its position, Hachijojima receives high annual rainfall (over 3,000mm), resulting in a lush, emerald landscape of thick undergrowth and vibrant vegetation that feels more reminiscent of Southeast Asia than mainland Tokyo. This humidity also fosters the growth of the island’s famous glowing mushrooms (mycena lux-coeli), which illuminate the forest floors in eerie green light during the rainy season.

Hiking the “Fuji of the Sea”

Standing at 854 meters, Mount Hachijo-fuji is the highest peak in the Izu Islands. The hike to the summit is a rite of passage for visitors, involving a grueling climb up 1,280 stone steps. Once at the rim, hikers can perform the Ohachi-meguri (crater walk), a narrow path that circles the massive volcanic depression. On clear days, the view provides a stunning 360-degree panorama of the deep blue Pacific and the neighboring island of Hachijo-kojima. For those looking for a less strenuous experience, Fureai Farm on the mountain’s western slope offers a flat plateau perfect for sunset viewing and sampling local milk gelato.

A History of Exile and Golden Silk

While archaeological evidence shows habitation dating back 6,500 years, Hachijojima is most famous for its role during the Edo Period. For over 250 years, the Tokugawa Shogunate used the island as a place of exile for political prisoners and convicts. This forced migration brought a high level of literacy and craftsmanship to the island. The most enduring legacy of this era is Kihachijo, a traditional silk weaving characterized by its vibrant yellow color derived from the local kariyasu plant. This “Golden Silk” is still hand-dyed and woven on the island today, recognized as one of Japan’s most prestigious traditional crafts.

The “Hachijo Blue”: Diving and Marine Life

Surrounded by the warm Kuroshio Current, the waters of Hachijojima are famous for their incredible clarity and deep indigo color, known locally as Hachijo Blue. Visibility often exceeds 30 meters, making it a world-class destination for scuba diving and snorkeling. The volcanic underwater topography features dramatic arches and lava tubes, but the main attraction is the local population of Green Sea Turtles (ao-umigame), which are frequently spotted even in the shallow waters of Sokodo Beach. From winter through early spring, the island also serves as a vantage point for Humpback Whale watching as they migrate through the channel.

Onsen and Local Delicacies

The island’s volcanic nature provides seven distinct hot springs. Miharashi-no-yu in the Sueyoshi district is renowned for its spectacular cliffside infinity view of the Pacific Ocean, while Uramigataki offers a free, outdoor bathing experience in a jungle-like setting next to a waterfall (swimsuits required). Notably, these public onsen do not have restrictions regarding tattoos, making them highly accessible for international travelers.

Culinary life on the island revolves around the Ashitaba plant (literally “Tomorrow’s Leaf”), known for its incredible regenerative properties and high nutritional value. Visitors should also try Shima-zushi (island sushi), which uses fish marinated in soy sauce and served with karashi (mustard) instead of wasabi. For the adventurous eater, there is Kusaya—a pungent fermented fish that is an Izu Island staple. While the smell is notoriously strong, the flavor is deeply savory and pair perfectly with Shima-shochu, the island’s potent sweet potato spirit.

Logistics and Getting There

Getting Around

While local buses operate on the island, they run infrequently (roughly once every two hours). To see the island’s hidden gems—such as the Hachijo Botanical Garden or the eerie, abandoned ruins of the Hachijo Oriental Resort—renting a kei-car (small car) is strongly recommended. Most rental agencies are located conveniently near the airport, and the island’s coastal loop can be driven in approximately 90 to 120 minutes.