Hakone

Hakone (箱根) is a premier volcanic onsen region located approximately 90km southwest of Tokyo, nestled within the borders of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. For centuries, its lifeblood has been the mineral-rich hot spring water that flows into the communal baths of its countless ryokan. High-society Japanese travelers have frequented Hakone since the beginning of the Edo period, and its enduring popularity is bolstered by its proximity to the capital and its breathtaking natural scenery. Iconic institutions like the Fujiya Hotel stand as monuments to this history, having hosted legendary figures such as Charlie Chaplin, John Lennon, and King George VI. Today, it remains the most sought-after getaway for those looking to swap the steel of the city for the steam of the mountains.

While the gateway town of Hakone-Yumoto thrives as a bustling tourist hub with souvenir shops and restaurants, the wider region offers a more dispersed, natural experience. Once travelers venture deeper into the mountains, the density of commercial establishments fades, replaced by dense forests and volcanic landscapes. One of the area’s most unique cultural exports is yosegi-zaiku, a traditional parquetry craft. This intricate art involves gluing various strips of naturally colored wood together to form complex geometric mosaics. These blocks are then sliced into thin veneers or hollowed out to create “secret” puzzle boxes, coasters, and bookmarks—each a testament to the region’s rich timber resources and artisanal patience.

Navigating the Hakone Loop

Most visitors experience the region via the “Hakone Loop,” a circular route utilizing a seamless network of specialized transport. The journey typically begins on the Hakone Tozan Railway, Japan’s oldest mountain train, which negotiates steep slopes through a series of dramatic switchbacks. From Gora, travelers ascend via the Hakone Tozan Cable Car to Sounzan, the jumping-off point for the Hakone Ropeway. This aerial gondola provides the most spectacular views of the region, soaring over Owakudani (the Great Boiling Valley). This active volcanic zone is characterized by sulfurous fumes and bubbling pools, where local vendors sell kuro-tamago—eggs boiled in the vents until their shells turn jet black. Local legend promises that eating one will add seven years to your life.

The ropeway descends to the shores of Lake Ashi, a caldera lake formed 3,000 years ago. Here, the loop continues aboard high-spirited “Pirate Ships”—extravagant sightseeing cruises that ferry passengers across the water. On clear days, this stretch of the journey offers the quintessential “Hakone view”: the bright red “Torii of Peace” of the Hakone Shrine standing in the water, with the snow-capped peak of Mount Fuji looming in the distance. Beyond the natural sights, the region is home to world-class art, most notably the Hakone Open-Air Museum, where monumental sculptures by masters like Henry Moore and Pablo Picasso are displayed against the backdrop of the rolling green mountains.

The Hakone Free Pass and Practical Tips

The Hakone Free Pass is the most efficient way to explore the region, providing unlimited use of eight different transportation systems, including the Tozan Railway, the Ropeway, and the Lake Ashi cruises. Available for either two or three days, the pass also grants discounted admission to many of the area’s top museums and onsen facilities. While the pass is sold at Hakone-Yumoto Station, purchasing it at Shinjuku Station in Tokyo is often more convenient, as it covers the round-trip journey to the region (with a small additional surcharge for the “Romancecar” express). Given the complexity of the local transit network, having the pass removes the friction of buying individual tickets at every transfer.

Visitors should be mindful of the “Owakudani” volcanic activity, as high gas levels can occasionally lead to the closure of parts of the ropeway or hiking trails for safety. Weather also plays a significant role in the experience; Mount Fuji is notoriously shy and is most likely to be visible during the early morning hours or during the colder, clearer months of winter. Whether you are visiting for the thrill of the volcanic vents or the quiet luxury of a forest-side soak, Hakone remains a sophisticated blend of raw nature and refined hospitality.