Once known as the consumer electronics center of Japan, today Akihabara is equally as famous for its otaku (geek) culture. Maid cafes, x-rated manga booksellers, amine stores, and shops dedicated to teenage idolatry are scattered among stores selling all manner of electronic consumer goods. It is one of the best places to glimpse into another side of Japanese culture—one which has at least partly developed as a form of escapism from the rigid structure of society.
But Akihabara is not all dolls and digital. Redevelopment in recent years is slowly helping it shed its geeky image, and new complexes like mAAch ecute seem to be heralding a new era for the area. Today Akihabara offers something for everyone, including Kanda Myojin, one of Tokyo’s most beautiful shrines.
It is best to visit Akihabara on Sunday afternoon when the main road, Chuo Dori, is pedestrianized, allowing you to stroll down and appreciate the gigantic posters and billboards which hang from the buildings either side.
The History of Akihabara
In the 19th century Tokyo was a tinderbox of elongated wooden nagaya (“long house”) all closely packed together in formulaic blocks with only narrow streets separating them, and fires were a common occurrence. In December 1869 a fire in the area left in its ashes a strip of land on which Chinka Shrine (“fire extinguishing shrine”) was built enshrining three gods associated with fire, water, and earth to protect the people from another such disaster. However, the common folk mistakenly took the new shrine to be a place of worship for Akiha-Gongen, a deity better known to safeguard against fire, and began calling it Akiha-sama and Akiha-san (sama and san being suffixed to names to show respect). The name was made official the following year. Akiha Shrine was moved in 1888 to make way for Akiha-no-hara (“The Land of Akiha”) Station, and now resides a short walk north-east of Ueno Station. Over time the station name became the more easily pronounced Akihabara.
Despite its prominence as an electronics mecca, the first markets in the area sold vegetables and fresh produce. It was not until the Sino-Japanese war in the 1930s that the focus moved to electronic components as the demand for wireless radios grew. After Japan’s defeat in 1945, technicians and electrical engineers found lucrative work fixing electronic devices from the odds and ends that could be salvaged during the commodity-scare post-war years. These repair men offered their services from open-air stalls until in 1949 they were prohibited from trading outside by the American occupiers, and so clubbed together to move indoors. Akihabara Radio Center, a warren of small indoor alleyways just north of the station, is the best relic from this history.
As Japan’s economy began its rapid ascent in the 1960s, Akihabara was well-placed to cater for the increasing demand for white goods—refrigerators and color televisions slowly began to encroach on the shelf space of the LEDs and transistors. In the 1970s, 80s and 90s chains such as Bic Camera and Yodobashi Camera spread their footprint nationwide, providing consumers with local access to the latest in electronic gadgets, and threatening Akihabara’s raison d’etre. By the 1990s Akihabara’s niche had moved from electronic components to figurines, anime, and comic books as a section of the next generation sought escapism from the rigid sarariiman lifestyle that awaited many of them after education, and over the next two decades Akihabara became the mecca of otaku culture that we know today.
Sightseeing / Entertainment
Important shrine with 1,300 years of history where two of the Seven Gods of Fortune are enshrined at Kanda Myojin: Daikokuten and Ebisu. The shrine is also host to one of the capital’s major festivals, Kanda Matsuri, which is held mid-May every other year. See here for more details.
A small warren of electronic booths under the rail tracks that was the gathering point of the wireless radio technicians who gathered here after the war to put their skills to use repairing radios from the odds and ends that could be salvaged in the commodity-scare post-war years. While the products on sale might have advanced, the narrow tunnels of the Radio Center haven’t changed all that much. Don’t miss the steps to the second floor where you can find all manner of “retro” electronic products, from Betamax players to the first Sony Walkman and Gameboys. A real treat for the gadget-lovers among us and one of Akihabara’s best sightseeing spots. See more photographs here.
Iconic building near the JR Akihabara Station Electric Town exit that reopened in 2014 following the demolishing of the old building in 2011. When it first opened in 1962, it was the first “high-rise” building in Akihabara, and at the forefront of stores selling electronic goods and gadgetry. Today, it has moved with the times and the focus has shifted away from electronics to manga, anime, and “otaku goods”.
Yodobashi Camera Akiba
A 9-floor shopping complex, floors 1-6 of which are occupied by Yodobashi Camera—the biggest consumer electronics store in Japan (and maybe the world). There is a tax-free counter and English speaking staff are on hand. Heaven for gadget-lovers.
- Directions. 1 minute from the Central Exit of JR Akihabara Station. Turn left out of the ticket gates and the entrance will be across the road. Google Maps
- Hours. 9:30-22:00, seven days a week
The viaduct in which this shopping arcade is housed lay derelict for the best part of 60 years before re-opening following refurbishment in 2013. The interior arches of the old structure have been preserved, and these now act as dividers for the boutiques and coffee vendors inside.
- Directions. 1-25-4 Kanda Sudacho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 101-0041 | 5 minutes from the Electric Town Exit of JR Akihabara Station. Cross over the bridge and the entrance is immediately on your right. Google Maps
- Hours. 11:00-22:30 (20:30 on Sunday and national holidays)
Akiba Cultures Zone
This shopping complex opened in 2012 and is dedicated to anime and manga. It is one of Akihabara’s most well-known stores and has one floor specializing in all manner of cartoon pornography (if that’s your thing…). On the 6th floor you can find Akihabara Backstage Pass Cafe, which is staffed by costume-adorned females.
- Directions. 5 minutes from the Electric Town Exit of JR Akihabara Station (cross over Chuo Dori). Google Maps
- Hours. 11:00-20:30 (Akihabara Backstage Pass Cafe open until 23:00)
2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan
Located under the rail tracks, Aki-Oka Artisan is a line of jewelry stores where you can watch craftsmen at work. The unusual name refers to the fact that it is 2km and 540m from Tokyo Station.
- Directions. Turn right out of the JR Akihabara Electric Town Exit and walk straight with the rail tracks on your right for 300m. Google Maps
- Hours. 11:00-19:00
The cafe dedicated to Japan’s famous robotic anime series: Gundam. Since airing in 1979 the Gundam franchise has snowballed into a household name, and now represents one of Namco Bandai’s main revenue streams.
Directions. 1 minute from the Electric Town Exit of JR Akihabara Station (walk straight out of the exit and its on your right). Google Maps
Hugely popular ball-bearing game which is Japan’s biggest form of gambling. The gaming parlors are deafeningly loud, but if you fancy your chances then Akihabara is the best place to find them. See here for more details.