Hakone Yumoto

Hakone Yumoto (箱根湯本) is the vibrant, steaming heart of the Hakone region and serves as its primary gateway. For most travelers, the journey begins the moment they step off the Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku. This limited express train doesn’t just transport you; it sets the tone for a luxury retreat with its panoramic windows and sleek design. As the oldest onsen town in the area, Yumoto has been welcoming weary travelers for over a millennium, blending traditional hospitality with the bustling energy of a modern transit hub.

The town is anchored by its lively main shopping street, which runs parallel to the station. Here, the air is thick with the scent of freshly steamed onsen manju (sweet bean-filled buns) and savory grilled snacks. It is an absolute must to sample some local delicacies as you wander, such as kamaboko (steamed fish cake) or the region’s famous himono (salted, dried fish). If you’re looking for authentic souvenirs, you’ll find everything from specialized craft beers to intricate yosegi-zaiku—traditional marquetry woodwork that is unique to the Hakone mountains. Even if your final destination lies deeper in the hills of Gora or Moto-Hakone, spending a couple of hours here is highly rewarding; the mix of historic ryokan and quirky storefronts captures the soul of a classic Japanese resort.

Just a short walk from the station, you’ll find the vermillion Ajisai Bridge arching over the clear waters of the Hayakawa River. This is one of the most photographed spots in the town and offers a peaceful respite from the commercial buzz of the station front. Beyond the shops, the hillside is dotted with hidden gems like Soun-ji Temple, which holds the history of the powerful Hojo clan. Whether you are using the town as a base for your onsen hopping or just passing through to catch the Hakone Tozan Railway—Japan’s oldest mountain railway—Hakone Yumoto provides a warm, nostalgic welcome that remains the perfect introduction to the Kanagawa mountainside.