Jindaiji Motomachi

Situated in a leafy suburb a 15-minute bus ride from Chofu Station, Jindaiji Temple and its surrounding Motomachi area are something of a hidden cultural gem. Often described as a “time-slip” destination, this quaint village feels remarkably disconnected from the high-speed urban hubbub of nearby Shibuya. Defined by its ancient water springs, lush greenery, and the lingering scent of buckwheat flour, it offers a rare glimpse into the rural atmosphere of old Musashino.

Tokyo’s Second-Oldest Temple

Built in 733, Jindaiji is the oldest temple in Tokyo after Sensoji in Asakusa. The temple’s name is a tribute to the water god Jinja Daio. According to local legend, the father of the temple’s founder prayed to the deity to be reunited with his true love, who had been confined to an island by her parents. A divine turtle appeared and carried him across the water to her, a miracle that eventually led the parents to bless the union. Their son would later build the temple to honor the deity that made his life possible.

History enthusiasts should not miss the Hakuho Buddha (Shaka Nyorai). This stunning 7th-century bronze statue was discovered under the temple’s altar in 1909 and was designated as a National Treasure in 2017. It is one of the few surviving examples of Hakuho-period sculpture in eastern Japan, characterized by its serene, youthful facial expression and intricate drapery.

The Soba Tradition and Spring Waters

Jindaiji Motomachi is arguably as famous for its noodles as it is for its divinity. During the Edo Period, the local soil was poorly suited for rice cultivation, forcing farmers to grow buckwheat instead. Because the area was rich in natural spring water—used to power watermills and rinse the noodles—the local Jindaiji Soba became exceptionally high in quality. Today, over 20 traditional soba shops line the stone-paved paths leading to the temple. Many of these restaurants still use traditional watermills and offer outdoor seating where you can dine under the shade of ancient zelkova trees.

Yokai and Folklore: Kitaro Chaya

A more modern cultural landmark is the Kitaro Chaya, a themed teahouse located at the temple entrance. The late Shigeru Mizuki, the legendary manga artist and creator of Gegege no Kitaro, lived in Chofu for over 50 years. This 40-year-old wooden building is decorated with life-sized figures of Japanese yokai (monsters) and serves themed snacks like “Medama-oyaji” (Eyeball Father) dumplings. The second floor houses a small gallery of Mizuki’s artwork, making it a must-visit for fans of Japanese folklore.

Jindai Botanical Gardens

Directly adjacent to the temple grounds is the Jindai Botanical Gardens. Once a nursery for Tokyo’s street trees, it is now one of the city’s most prestigious botanical parks. It is particularly renowned for its rose garden, which features over 5,000 bushes and is at its peak in both May and October. The park also houses a massive greenhouse containing rare tropical plants and a dedicated plum garden that serves as an early harbinger of spring in February.

The Daruma Market

If visiting in early March, you may witness the Yakuyoke Ganzan Daishi Festival. This event is home to one of Japan’s “Big Three” Daruma Markets. Thousands of people flock to Jindaiji to purchase vermilion Daruma dolls for luck and perseverance. A unique local tradition involves temple priests painting a special Sanskrit character into the left eye of the doll to “activate” the wish, and a different character into the right eye when the wish is fulfilled.

Logistics and Access

The best way to reach Jindaiji is via a short bus ride from either Chofu Station (Keio Line) or Mitaka Station (JR Chuo Line). The buses run frequently and drop you at the edge of the temple district. For those seeking a full day of relaxation, the Jindaiji Onsen “Yumori no Sato” is located within walking distance, offering dark, mineral-rich hot springs in a traditional wooden setting.