Rikugien Gardens

In 1695 the fifth Tokugawa shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, gifted his chief counsel, Yanagisawa Yoshiyasu, almost nine hectares of flat land. With this gift Yoshiyasu moved earth to create a hill, dug a pond, and constructed paths to build a garden that expressed his love of poetry. It took Yoshiyasu seven years of toil to turn his imagination into reality and Rikugien (六義園), which translates as the “six tenets garden”, was born. The name comes from the “six tenets of poetry” written in the preface of the Kokin Wakashu (an anthology of waka poetry), and Yoshiyasu’s idea was to have scenes in the garden represent passages in the book. This creates a rare “lull” in the city where literature and landscape architecture are inextricably linked.

A Poetry-Inspired Landscape

The garden is designed in the kaiyu-shiki (circuit stroll) style, featuring 88 miniature scenes known as “Waka-no-ura,” each referencing famous poems. While many of these specific spots are now unmarked, the overall atmospheric “vibe” remains one of scholarly elegance. The central feature is the large Sensui pond, which contains a man-made island representing Horaijima—a mythical island of eternal youth. At the northern end of the grounds, visitors can climb the “Fujishiro-toge” hill, which offers a 35-meter-high vantage point over the entire garden sprawl. From here, the meticulous planning of the Yanagisawa family is visible, showcasing a landscape that was literally dug and piled into existence from flat marshland.

The garden was used as a place of residence for the Yanagisawa family for the next 166 years, slowly becoming overgrown as the years passed. However, following the Meiji Restoration, the land was purchased by the Iwasaki family—the founders of Mitsubishi—who restored the garden to its former glory and built the red brick wall that we see today around the circumference. The grounds were donated to Tokyo City in 1938 and subsequently opened to the public. Unscathed by the Great Kanto earthquake of 1923 and untouched by the air raids of World War II, Rikugien stands today just as it was first imagined by Yoshiyasu over 300 years ago.

Seasonal Illuminations and Tea Traditions

For those seeking a moment of rest, the Fukiage Chaya teahouse sits along the northwestern shore of the pond. It provides a quiet space to enjoy matcha and seasonal wagashi (Japanese sweets) while looking out over the water. This area is particularly popular during the seasonal transitions when the garden’s character shifts dramatically. In late March when the cherry trees blossom and again in November when the leaves turn red, Rikugien hosts an evening light-up—illuminations strategically placed around the garden to show the colors in all their natural glory.

The popularity of these events means that you will have to queue for entrance to the garden, and then be shuffled along in a line once inside, but the sight of the colors at night is truly spectacular and a must for any nature-lover. The weeping cherry tree (shidarezakura) near the main gate is the star of the spring show, with its cascading branches illuminated like a floral waterfall. In autumn, the focus shifts to the stone bridges and the maple-lined paths, where the interplay of light and shadow highlights the deep crimsons and golds of the canopy. Even with the crowds, the experience remains a quintessential part of Tokyo’s seasonal calendar.