• Baths
  • Facilities
  • Value for Money
3.8

Summary

One of my favourite onsen. While you can find black water (kuro-yu) in many other onsen in Tokyo, the Jomon-theme of Shiraku no Yu is truly unique and the bare-concrete seems to create an echo effect such that the sound of the flowing water is amplified throughout the room. The soba restaurant next door is also a worth a visit.

Shiraku no Yu is a natural onsen in Kawasaki near the Tama River and the border of Kanagawa and Tokyo. The hot spring water is drawn up from 1,300 meters and is technically fossil water—sea water trapped underground in between rocks—and so is rich in minerals and other nutrients. It is said to have an “osmotic pressure “ effect whereby your body takes on these nutrients as you bathe—apparently good for recovery from physical exhaustion and general well-being of the skin. Simply put, a good detox for your body.

There’s a small shop selling towels, soaps, and so on
The rest area with a small canteen

Shiraku no Yu seems to shirk away from any sort of modern frills and refinement—it’s all about the natural water and the onsen experience. Indeed, the onsen was designed with Japan’s Jomon era (14,000-300 BCE) in mind: the floor of the shower area is raked cement, and the sliding door that leads to the single, roofed open-air bath closes with a pulley which uses a log as its counter weight. No sign of modernity here. Inside there is one large rock tub about 6 square meters, two much smaller tubs (including one cold water tub), and a sauna (mist sauna in the female onsen).

The side-tub in the female onsen is shaped like a magatama—a piece of jewellery from the Jomon era the shape of which is common even today
The male open-air bathrub
The shower area
The walls of the female mist sauna with Jomon-era paintings

The rest area is fairly spacious with a small canteen style area, and there is a selection of onsen-related goods for sale at the gift shop by the reception. The onsen also operates an excellent soba restaurant in the building next door which is open until 23:00 (last order 22:30). Price for a standard soba noodle set is about ¥1,000-1,500.

Shiraku no Yu’s concept of getting back to basics makes it unique even among Tokyo’s more traditional onsen. From the dimly lit rooms, to the dark, earthly decor, the onsen is a great place to go in the evening to soak in silence for an hour or so and forget about the city outside.


Japanese
志楽の湯
Where?
Kawasaki
Type
Natural onsen
What's it got?
Open-air baths
Sauna
Massage
Near station
Admission
¥880 on weekdays and ¥1,030 on weekends and public holidays (about ¥300 cheaper for children). Entrance fee does not include a face or bath towel, but these can be purchased or rented at the reception for about ¥200
Hours
Open 10:00-24:00 throughout the year (from 3pm on the 3rd Wednesday of each month)
Address
4-314-1 Tsukagoshi, Saiwai-ku, Kawasaki-shi, Kanagawa 212-0024
Directions
Easiest access is from Shibuya. Take the Tokyu Toyoko Line to Musashi-Kosugi, and then change to the JR Nambu Line (bound towards Kawasaki). The nearest station is Yako Station (about 8 minutes on the train from Musashi-Kosugi), from where Shiraku no Yu is a 6-minute walk. It’s not far, but is down a couple of side streets so if you don’t have a connected smartphone then make sure you print out a map beforehand.
 

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