Hottarakashi Onsen

The name Hottarakashi (ほったらかし) roughly translates to “leaving things as they are” or “setting troubles aside,” and once you are submerged in the shallow outdoor baths with the serene profile of Mount Fuji filling the horizon, the name feels perfectly apt. This facility is unapologetically simple; you won’t find the high-tech saunas, complex massage menus, or manicured gardens of Tokyo’s “resort” onsen. Instead, Hottarakashi offers a raw, elevated “lull” at 700 meters above sea level where the view does all the talking.

The facility is split into two distinct bathing areas: Kocchi no Yu (“This Bath”) and Acchi no Yu (“That Bath”). Kocchi is the original, smaller facility made of rustic wood and stone, favored by locals for its intimate, mountain-hut atmosphere. Acchi, opened later and built twice as large, is the primary destination for the “sunrise crowd.” It is specifically positioned to offer an unbroken 180-degree panorama of the Kofu Basin and the peaks beyond. Both feature basic, shack-like changing rooms with open baskets for clothing—though ¥100 lockers are available for valuables at the main reception area.

What truly separates Hottarakashi from its rivals is its schedule. Acchi no Yu opens its gates one hour before sunrise year-round, allowing guests to watch the snow on Mt. Fuji shift from deep purple to soft pink as the sun clears the ridgeline. At the other end of the day, the onsen is famous for its “million-dollar” night view, as the lights of the valley below mirror the stars above. For many, no visit is complete without a stop at the humble food stand to try the Ontama-Age—a crispy, deep-fried soft-boiled egg with a gooey, warm yolk that is the perfect post-soak snack. It is also worth noting that Hottarakashi is famously tattoo-friendly, welcoming bathers with any level of body art without the need for covers or bandages.