Sugamo Jizo-dori (巣鴨地蔵通り) is an 800-meter-long shopping street that offers one of Tokyo’s most endearing cultural snapshots. Affectionately known as “Grandma’s Harajuku,” it serves as the primary social and commercial hub for the city’s older generations. Far from the fast-paced trends of Shibuya, Sugamo moves at a gentler pace, emphasizing traditional hospitality, seasonal festivals, and specialized goods designed to promote health and longevity.
The First Rest Point of the Nakasendo
The street’s history as a place of commerce dates back to the Edo period. It was originally a section of the Nakasendo, one of the five major highways connecting Edo (Tokyo) to Kyoto. Because Sugamo was the first rest stop for travelers after they departed from the “Zero Milestone” in Nihombashi, it flourished as a post station. Today, that spirit of welcoming travelers remains, though the horses and palanquins have been replaced by seniors looking for a bargain and a bowl of traditional tea.
Healing at Koganji Temple
The spiritual anchor of the street is Koganji Temple, moved here from Ueno in 1891. The temple is home to the Togenuki Jizo, a deity famously known as the “Splinter-Removing Jizo.” According to local legend, a maid once swallowed a needle, but after swallowing a small paper talisman of Jizo, the needle was spat out, pierced through the paper. Today, thousands of visitors queue to perform a healing ritual at the Arai Kannon statue outside the temple. By pouring water over the statue and rubbing the part of the Kannon’s body that corresponds to their own ailment, it is believed they can relieve their aches and pains.
Iconic Shopping: Red Underwear and Sugamon
Perhaps the most famous sight in Sugamo is the abundance of red underwear (aka-pan). The shop Maruji is the pioneer of this trend, selling everything from bright red socks to undershirts. In Japanese culture, red is believed to be a restorative color that wards off bad luck and stimulates blood flow, making these garments the “must-buy” souvenir for seniors. At the entrance of the street, keep an eye out for Sugamon, the district’s duck mascot. There is a large, fluffy replica of his “tail” (the Sugamon Butt) that visitors touch for good luck in their relationships and business.
Shio-Daifuku and Local Flavors
No visit to Sugamo is complete without sampling shio-daifuku. This local specialty is a soft, glutinous rice cake filled with unsweetened red bean paste (anko) and a hint of salt. The saltiness provides a sophisticated balance to the beans, making it a favorite for those who find standard Japanese sweets too cloying. Mizuno is the most famous shop for this treat, but you will find various bakeries and stalls along the street selling fresh daifuku, senbei (rice crackers), and Japanese pickles.
Logistics and Access
The best time to visit Sugamo is on the 4th, 14th, or 24th of every month, when the temple holds its ennichi (festival days). On these dates, additional stalls line the street, selling everything from bonsai trees to second-hand kimonos. However, the street remains lively and atmospheric every weekend.
| Station | Line(s) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Sugamo | JR Yamanote, Toei Mita Line | 5-minute walk to the entrance. |
| Koshin-zuka | Toden Arakawa Line | Entrance at the north end of the street. |
For a perfect day trip, we recommend taking the Toden Arakawa Line (Tokyo’s last surviving streetcar) to Koshin-zuka Station and walking through the shopping street toward the JR Sugamo Station. This route lets you experience the full length of the market while heading back toward the city center.
